Pini Parma

A first commission at Pini Parma takes weeks, not an afternoon. Measurements and cloth come first, the garment is cut, and a fitting follows before anything is finished, which is a slower path than most of this street offers and the reason the house came to London at all.

The business was built by the Pini family, with co-founder Thomas Pini fronting its move beyond Italy. The cut is Italian rather than English: lighter canvas, less padding through the shoulder, a jacket that sits closer through the chest than anything made a few streets east on Savile Row.

Ordering made to measure suits New Bond Street tailors will fit twice

Italian wools, linens and cottons dominate the book, with weights chosen for a British spring rather than a Milanese one if you say so at the start. Expect several weeks between the first appointment and collection, and expect to be asked how you actually intend to wear the thing.

If you are not commissioning

Ready-to-wear suiting, jackets, knitwear and shirting are on the floor and cut on the same block, so they are a fair guide to whether the house shape suits you before you commit to a commission.