The Bespoke Process. Nothing compares to investing and dressing in bespoke. The iconic style and elegance afforded by a bespoke suit is timeless. You gain the comfort that comes from a garment created especially for your body and requirements, the pleasure of owning a piece of supreme craftsmanship. Gieves & Hawkes bespoke tailoring blends the traditional relationship between cutter and customer, with an acute awareness to silhouette.
The Commission. The process of bespoke begins with a consultation with a specialised tailoring, be it a suit, sports jacket and trouser, or an elegant evening dress suit. Your cutter will take your unique order. The cutter will have at least 10 years of tailoring and hand cutting experience. The cutter takes measurements from the body, taking all configurations. The garment is initiated with a paper pattern, which is drafted and then cut by the cutter. Your patterns will be permanently stored on the premises at No.1, ready for when you return to us again in the future.
The Creation. After cutting, each item is passed on to a separate master tailor, this single master tailor is responsible for the hand rendering. Horsehair canvasses are washed, softened and hand-shaped over the knee following the cutters fitting instructions. This is completed to a stage known as a First Baste, where the garment is loosely stitched, without pockets, buttons or any finish details.
The Finished Garment. Following on from the First Baste, the garment is advanced at the second fitting. By the third fitting the coat is almost ready to be closed, with a fourth and final fitting for a new customer. Throughout the process your personal cutter works diligently to perfect your pattern for a supreme fit. All finishing is completed by hand including edge stitching, padding of lapels, individual buttonholes and application of buttons. All linings are felled by hand, linen is used to reinforce pockets and gorge. Sleeves hand inserted and stitched, shoulder pads and canvases are hand-cut and shaped. The pressing is completed by a separate finisher whose job is only to press.
Approximately four fittings will be required to have your first bespoke garment made. We generally set a lead-time of eight to twelve weeks. Once we have a finalised pattern, this can be reduced to four weeks or less for future commissions.
After Care. The life of a bespoke suit is considerably longer than a ready to wear suit due to the quality of its production and the attention paid to fit. There are, sufficient inlays to allow up to three inches of adjustment to the body seams. Garments may be freshened by the finishing team including brushing, re-pressing and running repairs over the years.